Out of Africa

In the past, I was not so keen about visiting any African countries because I felt it might just be too depressing for me to see countries poorer than the Philippines.

"Just imagine yourself as Hollywood actress Angelina Jolie doing her rounds among the poorest refugees in Africa. If that is not enough, imagine yourself being married to heartthrob Brad Pitt!" This was what my good friend Karl Gaspar said when I kept on postponing my visit to African countries.

I finally ran out of plausible excuses when my call of duty came. On the first week of August, my baptism of fire on Africa – the so-called "cradle of civilization," the second largest continent, and the home of the world's poorest countries – started in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso. But to my surprise, the country was not that depressing as I imagined it to be. On the contrary, I acquired so much inspiration from the said visit that now I crave to see and learn more about Africa.

But that is going ahead of the story. I was invited by the International Network of Alternative Financial Institutions (INAFI International) to attend the Experts Meeting on Microfinance, Remittance and Development. The two-day meeting (August 2-4) went well with the discussion gravitated on how microfinance providers can develop remittance-based financial products and services in helping migrants and their families.

It was great to listen to the ideas of most of the participants who were microfinance and remittance experts. In fact, two representatives from the Benin Ministry of Foreign Affairs expressed their full support to hold the INAFI Global Conference on Microfinance, Remittances and Development in their country, particularly Cotonou, on November 6-9.

Now, sort of my travelogue. My journey started from Amsterdam to Paris. The connecting flight from Charles de Gaulle Airport (Paris) to Ouagadougou took about six hours. Unexpectedly, it was raining when we arrived. It was a big disappointment for me since it had been raining almost the whole summer in the Netherlands where I live and was looking forward to a sultry African weather. As a matter of fact, I only packed light summer clothes and a sweater in case cold shivers my flesh while on the plane. The sweater proved to be the most useful thing I brought with me.

I stayed in Azalai Hotel along Av. du Président Aboubacar Sangoulé Laminaza just about 5-minute drive from the airport. It is a beautiful hotel with very rich history. According to Soukeyna Ndiayi Ba, INAFI executive director, the word azalai means "caravan," referring to the camel caravan routes between Timbuktu (a thousand-year-old settlement on the southern border of the Sahara Desert) and the Taoudenni salt mines in Mali. The route linked West African cities with Europe and the Middle East in 300 A.D.

"The caravan had a convoy of as many as 10,000 camels carrying gold and slaves from Ghana, Guinea and Senegal to the North of Sahara. On their way back, they brought with them some goods," Soukeyna added. I listened with much ado all the fascinating information she shared. The caravan, she said, usually stopped right where the hotel is located now. Now, I cannot imagine how the street looked like then thousands of years ago as it was crowded with camels and traders.

Later on, I gathered from various sources that Ouagadougou has a population of around 360,000 in 1985. It is the capital of Burkina Faso, formerly known as Upper Volta. The landlocked country is about eight times the size of The Netherlands and is located geographically in the Sahel.

Founded in the 15th century, Burkina Faso was the capital of the Mossi kingdom of Wagadugu (in 1441). About 250 years later, it became the permanent residence of the Morho naba ("great king"), the Mossi king.
Even today, the Morho naba lives in the city, though with much-depleted powers. In the late 19th century, the country came under French control and ultimately gained independence in 1960. However, it was only in 1984 that the borders of the country were finally defined.

But what amazed me were the wide variety of souvenirs available in the market, among them: wooden statuettes, bronze models, masks, jewelries, fabrics, hand woven blankets and leather goods and crafts, ranging from chessboards to ashtrays. They show a high level of craftsmanship.

Literally, the name Burkina Faso means the "land of upright people." The country is considered is one of the poorest in the world. The UN Development Programme, in its Human Development Report, ranks it 174th out of the 177 countries listed. An estimated 80 per cent of its population live on less than US$2 a day. And yet, you will find so many banks within the city. There is a Western Union office in almost
every block or several offices on every street. This shows that Burkina Faso receives huge remittances from Burkinabes living and working outside of their country.

Contrary to what I believe, Italy, and not France is the major destination of French-speaking Burkinabes who find jobs in agricultural sector. Burkina Faso is next to Mali in the top ten countries in Africa receiving migrant remittances. In the 1990s,remittances comprised about six percent of Burkina's gross domestic product. Although remittances to the country are hard to count, the World Bank estimated that in 1990 Burkinabès sent home US$140 million.

According to Migration Policy Institute, Côte d'Ivoire is the primary source of waged work for Burkinabes and hence of remittances. Burkina Faso is not at all disconnected from the modern world. Every two years, the friendly capital hosts the largest African film festival -- Panafrican Film and Television Festival of Ouagadougou (FESPACO).

After the INAFI meeting, I joined a group visiting a village about an hour-drive from our hotel. The small settlement is composed of clustered mud brick huts with grass roof and small grain stores. Inside the house, you can see several large clay jars and few clothes. Four women sleep inside the hut.

"What are those large clay jars for?" I asked one woman through an interpreter. We used them, she answered in their own dialect, to store vegetables so that they would remain fresh for a couple of days. (This readily reminded me of an article I read long time ago how a farmer in Nigeria refined an ancient technology using jars to keep spinach, tomatoes, onions and other perishable goods for longer periods.

This is something which can be adapted in our rural areas. I tried to find the article via the internet and this is the link: https://practicalaction.org/docs/agroprocessing/food_chain_29.pdf ).
Since it had been raining for the last few days, the fields were green and there were lots of activities. The women and young girls were busy plowing the field. "Where are the men?" I asked but nobody bothered to give me an answer. The weather was unusual because normally, I was told, it should be hot and humid by that time of the year in Burkina Faso.

The young woman, whose name I cannot recall anymore, said that only women sleep in the hut. I asked Soukeyna on our way back why the wife and the daughters sleep in one hut and the father in the other hut.
"The men have usually more than one wife, sometimes up to five," she revealed. "He usually sleeps in his own hut with one of the wives whoever is convenient."

It made me realized that these people need so little in order to live. Ranked by UN as the fourth poorest country in the world, Burkina Faso is a poor country even by West African standard. I wondered if they know what life is outside of their village. Do they read as to what people do, especially those from Western countries? Most children could not go to school beyond primary school. Their needs are small and life is laid back out there. You can breathe fresh air and people are not enslaved by time and the hustle and bustle of urban life.

Having said that, I want it to be known that I don't romanticize poverty. There is still so much to be done to improve the quality of life in the villages. Burkina Faso is poor but it is considered to be one of the safer countries in Africa. The people are very friendly. I came to know two young men although it was not easy to communicate because French is the official language which becomes a barrier in establishing friendship with the local people.

Before I left, two people gave me something: one gave me a necklace and a pair of earrings and the other, a jewelry leather box with my name embossed on the cover.

My recent sojourn was a good introduction to Africa and its people. I still have a secret wish though: to visit Timbuktu in Mali. Why Timbuktu? My father mentioned the place Timbuktu when I was still a child. I thought Timbuktu was just a product of my father's creative imagination. To me, the name alone signifies a mysterious place, a myth, an enigma.
Years later, I learned that Timbuktu indeed exists and it is a place of learning, wisdom and spirituality. I think I should really see the place. Soukeyna, who is based in Senegal, said that we will travel together to Timbuktu one day.

I can't wait for that day to come. With a childlike adventurism, I thought of joining an azalai expedition with thousands of camels up to the fabled city of Timbuktu. I want to see the salt mines and the ancient and endangered manuscripts dating back up to the 9th century.

"No, Leila, joining a camel caravan takes too long. We will go there with 4-by-4 wheel drive vehicle," said Soukeyna, who woke me up from my pleasant imagination. It is a dream though I hope it would come to reality in the near future.

But before Timbuktu, I have to see Accra, the capital city of Ghana in West Africa, first and then Benin come November. Asante sana ("Thanks a lot" in Swahili!) My African safari has just begun.

Pictures of Ouagadougou can be viewed at:
http://sunchild-outofthebox.blogspot.com/2007/08/august-1-6-2007-destination-ouagadougou.html